The art of kiltmaking involves more than sewing together the cloth. The huge length between 8 and 11 yards depending on the size of the man – must be pleated to look like a plain piece of tartan.
The kilt is made with two overlapping aprons of plain tartan on the front, while the material is pleated all round the back to give the same appearance as the plain tartan in front.
The 'sett', the pattern repeat, varies from tartan to tartan; the sett on the tartan for a child's kilt may be 3.5 ", on a woman's 5.5", on a man's 6.5", so folding needs great care and planning.
The quality of a kilt lies in the depth of the pleat. In addition to matching the pattern, the kilt must follow the contours of the body so that when it is worn it hangs straight with no sagging at the back.
Once pleated, the cloth is then hand-sewn, then the extra cloth at the back is cut away.
Binding is put on to strengthen the structure, then heavy canvas, and extra strengthening is stitched round areas of strain where the belt and buckle are.
The straps are stitched on by hand, and a black lining and quality buckles are added.
The fringing down the front edge is usually double but can be triple.
Demonstrations of the different forms of pleating can be shown at anytime, please do not hesitate to ask.
For more information or to book your fitting appointment, contact the team at Millsom & Main today